There’s a solid argument to be made for this claim: Wario’s ushered in the Age of Sandwiches in Columbus. Considering that sandwiches have long been a popular food, it’s admittedly a spicy proposition. But when Wario’s first appeared on the radar, people got excited, really excited about its sandwiches. And when other sandwich joints make their debut today, their wares are inevitably measured against Wario’s.
So when your sandwiches are the measuring stick for excellence, that’s really saying something.
Of course, Wario’s prices are not for the thoughtless eating machine. If you’re not ready to commit your appetite and your wallet, that’ll stop you right there in your tracks. There’s a price for excellence, and most of Wario’s sandwiches weigh in north of the $15 point. Without add-ons. That said, plenty of folks are willing to pay for excellent sandwiches. Enough folks that Wario’s has doubled in number, opening a new spot in Clintonville this year. The new location replaces a BBQ joint on a High Street thoroughfare that also hosts a HCT, a Jeni’s, a NorthStar and Gallo’s. And while the competition might be ample, Wario’s is having no difficulties in attracting a crowd.
It would make sense to start with The Sandwich, in this case, The Steak, which is based on fresh-shaved ribeye. That said, there’s no shortage of ink about The Steak, and adding more at this point feels dangerously redundant. So let’s look elsewhere: a culinary adventurer will find all the satisfaction and glory of The Steak in a different path towards the Wario Spuds ($14). An order offers blistered, chunky-cut fried potatoes, smothered in a mountain of that juicy ribeye slathered with cheese sauce, Wario sauce, zippy peppers and a shamefully indulgent supply of roasted garlic.
Meanwhile, The Cold Cut ($18) is an intriguing mix of fancy ingredients offered in a format that demands enthusiastically unfancy eating behavior. Its soft, seeded roll hosts a mix of rosemary ham, soppressata, and gorgeously marbled hot coppa – cuts you might typically savor alone, but instead they’re stacked with picante provolone, the house tomato butter and Wario sauce. Then there’s lettuce and defining loads of spiked giardiniera crafted from a Wario’s special recipe. These elements might otherwise be enjoyed individually, but Wario’s piles them in for a giant, mind-blowing flavor overload…and good value.
For those who do not eat meat, there is The Vegetarian ($13). It has the signature elements of excess you might find in any Wario’s sandwich – but it’s built with tender falafel (again, house made), pickled onions, cucumbers, greens and more of the tomato butter and Wario sauce, the latter of which ties it all together in a way that lifts it to the same levels as the meat-based offering.
And for sides, try out the Pasta Salad ($6). Dense with meat, cheese and giardiniera, it’s not an afterthought, it’s a salad worthy of stomach space with a mix that repurposes the magic from The Cold Cut in forkable salad form.
Like the Downtown version, the new Wario’s at 4219 N. High St. is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. But it’s open Wednesdays through Saturdays from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. (Sundays, it closes at 5 p.m.)
For more information, visit wariosbeefandpork614.com.
All photos by Susan Post
