The last time we dined at Pietro’s on the River, Pietro walked us outside and told us he was retiring and selling the restaurant. This felt like sad news. The restaurant evoked the easy but classy ambience of dining at a country club with the benefit of amazing views of the Indian River Lagoon.

But change can be good and, thankfully, experienced restaurateurs Bill and Jean McLean embraced the beautiful restaurant and location. We were celebrating our anniversary and wanted to dine on the water, so we decided to visit The Nest. We arrived earlier than our reservation so we could enjoy the sunset from the welcoming bar.

The entire bar and restaurant have floor-to-ceiling windows to view the spectacle of the transformative view. The bar is austerely decorated with interesting spherical lights that look like part of a set from Cirque du Soleil.

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We faced the expansive windows and, as the sun descended toward the horizon, the light was alternately very bright then shadowed by trees. The dimming of the day is always a reflective time. Especially on an anniversary. Phew! The tables are formally set with white tablecloths, napkins and sparkly crystal. Slender lights enhance the mood.

Appetizer highlights include crab martini, pepper-crusted tuna medallions, and smoked salmon corn chowder. The “marine entrees” include coconut crusted snapper and jumbo lump crab cakes. The “terrestrial entrees” include beef, duck and rack of lamb.

We shared the charred romaine salad ($14), which was enhanced by crispy bacon, heirloom tomatoes and cucumber drizzled with a tangy gorgonzola vinaigrette.

My handsome husband — I have to say that as he actually reads my reviews — ordered the bone-in Duroc pork chop ($34). This type of pork is known for its marbling and tenderness, and the dish delivered. The tasty pork was glazed in a sweet apricot and sharp horseradish glaze and served on a bed of cheesy polenta.

My handsome husband’s wife decided to forego an entrée and tried two appetizers. I ordered the calamari steak ($19), which was pounded flat, breaded and pan fried. I loved this dish. The calamari was toothsome and flavorful. Briny black olives, a squeeze of lemon and chopped tomatoes Mediterranean salsa made me a believer that calamari could be a steak.

I also ordered the crispy polenta cake ($16) because it was topped with sauteed wild mushrooms, peppery arugula, pure marinara sauce and shaved Parmesan. I worship mushrooms, and the dish was worthy of adulation.

The Nest is a place to drink in the view while enjoying a cocktail at the bar. The happy hour menu is offered from 3-9 p.m. if you prefer a light meal in the bar. In both the bar and the dining room, you will be awed by the dazzling sunset and impressed by the service. Combine that all with an appealing menu, enticing presentation and delectable dishes. We’re happy you’re here.

The Nest

• Cuisine: American

• Address: 8735 S. Ocean Drive, Jensen Beach

• Phone: 772-229-7575

• Hours: The dining room is open 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday; the happy hour drink menu is available from 3-6 p.m. and the happy hour food menu is available at the bar from 3-9 p.m.

• Alcohol: Full bar

• Online: www.nestontheriver.com

Lucie Regensdorf dines anonymously at the expense of TCPalm for #WhatToDoIn772. Contact her at [email protected].

This article originally appeared on Treasure Coast Newspapers: Restaurant review: The Nest was Pietro’s on the River, Jensen Beach