Our critic tries the excellent dishes on offer at a popular ‘American-bistro’-style eatery in Soho
Rita’s restaurant in London
Today at 03:30
A million years ago, when I worked in the film business in Soho, every other half-open doorway bore a hand-written sign inscribed with the enticement: “Young Model, Please Walk Up.” Now, it’s all Japanese pastry shops and queues for trainers outside End on Broadwick Street. Even the pavements of Berwick Street aren’t as slippy with rotten fruit as they used to be.
But on a recent visit back to Lexington Street, I’m happy to see the popularity of one of my favourite restaurants, Andrew Edmunds, shows no sign of abating, despite the death of its proprietor, mourned as one of the last bastions of ‘Old Soho’, in 2022. Andrew Edmunds was always one of those places where a long lunch could segue happily into dinner without anyone taking much notice.