On a warm Thursday afternoon in Milano, Roberto Cavalli’s creative director Fausto Puglisi gathered a brigade of the late founder’s supermodel muses: Eva Herzigova, Joan Smalls, Isabeli Fontana, Natasha Poly, Mariacarla Boscono, Karen Elson and Alek Wek. The line-up—in glamazonian archival gowns from the 2000s—were a nod to the print master’s signature silhouettes. It was, of course, the first runway show since Mr. Cavalli’s death in April.

The looks which preceded this tribute, however, were a departure from such flashiness and more than heralded Puglisi’s arrival. The show opened with all-white looks, before Mediterranean hues—ocres and baby blues—hijacked the motion. Drawing inspiration from his hometown in Messina, Puglisi designed for a fictitious mermaid of sorts as fishing nets became skirts, and photo prints of sunsets over electric blue waters were spayed across dresses and pyjama sets. While Mr. Cavalli was known for high-octane prints, show-stopping cutouts, and slinky silhouettes well before they became the pinnacle of fashion in the early 2000s, Puglisi is tempering the sex appeal, his creations still sexy, but not constricted.

The legendary designer passed away aged 83 of a condition unknown. At the time of his death, Puglisi—who has been working at the house since 2020—posted a tribute to Instagram.

“Dear Roberto, you may not be physically here with us anymore but I know I will feel your spirit with me always,” Puglisi said. “It is the greatest honour of my career to work under your legacy and to create for the brand you founded with such vision and style. Rest in peace you will be missed and you are loved by so many that your name will continue on, a beacon of inspiration for others, and especially for me.”

Yes, Mr. Cavalli’s spirit was more than alive in Milano today, not only during the heart-thumping tribute, but within the turn of a new tide. You can watch the Roberto Cavalli Spring 2025 show below.