Hard cider functions as much more than an “alternative” to beer; it’s an agricultural product that showcases craft producers’ innovative ideas as part of a beverage category that continues to grow every year. 

Those were among the central themes Crain’s Grand Rapids Business heard from cider makers who gathered at the 18th annual Great Lakes International Cider and Perry Competition (GLINTCAP) last week to showcase their best products and learn from one another. 

The gathering, akin to the Super Bowl of cider, took place May 15-17 in Grand Rapids, hosted by the Michigan Cider Association. Billed as the largest international cider competition and hosted annually in Grand Rapids, the event drew hundreds of cider makers from across the U.S., Spain, Japan, Canada, Germany and elsewhere to share best practices and vie for a trophy recognizing the quality of various ciders and perries.  

This year’s competition weighed more than 1,400 entries in 25 categories. 

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“It’s fun to see the camaraderie,” Paula Englin, executive director of the Michigan Cider Association, told Crain’s Grand Rapids Business. “We have folks that are volunteering for their first time here at GLINTCAP, experiencing it with fresh eyes, and then folks that have been here for all 18 that we’ve held it.”

Over the course of two days, a panel of judges hailing from different countries and specialities judged six rounds of cider flights to determine the best of the best.

At GLINTCAP, cider and perry — made from fermented pears — are judged in both commercial and non-commercial categories, with awards for producer of the year, best in class, sweet, dry, botanical, rosé, hopped, traditional and modern ciders, among others. 

The range of categories is a testament to the wide variety of flavor profiles cider has expanded to include over the years.

“I think cider is probably one of the most misunderstood beverages in the world, particularly in the U.S.,” Englin said. “At least here in the Midwest, cider is often viewed as the occasional alternative to a beer, or it’s the one thing available for your friend that has a gluten allergy.

“Cider is such a complex and really special beverage. It dates back to the foundation of our country. A lot of times, women are the ones who made cider in the home and it was a safe alternative to drinking water. It’s grown to be its own beverage category, and really ranging from very fun and light hearted … to sweet and dry and hopped. (It’s) just a beautiful spectrum that cider possesses, but a lot of people kind of see it as just one-sided.” 

Agricultural concerns 

GLINTCAP attendees remain focused on agricultural issues, including access to farmland, stability for growers and climate concerns that affect the apple and fruit growers that cideries source from.

“Cideries can’t support farmers alone, but we need successful farmers to have cider,” said John Behrens, founder and president of Farmhaus Cider Co., located in Ottawa County’s Blendon Township, near Hudsonville, and treasurer of the Michigan Cider Association.

Farmhaus Cider recently purchased a 116-year-old orchard to provide apples for the cidery, while preserving farmland and creating a space to educate customers about the agriculture behind cider.

“The number of people that still don’t really get the connection continues to amaze me,” Behrens said.

This is especially important as the fruit industry continues to contend with rising H-2A labor costs that are challenging the economics for many growers in West Michigan and beyond.  

In December, the U.S. Department of Labor announced the hourly wage for migrant farmworkers in Michigan would increase to $18.50 an hour in 2024, up 6.7% or $1.16 over last year. This is the 10th consecutive year the wage has risen, putting Michigan’s H-2A visa worker wage at fifth-highest in the nation. 

In addition to climbing H2-A wage rates, issues like climate change and access to farmland are threatening fruit growers. 

“Having a healthy agricultural system is extremely important to the survival of cider,” said Dave Takush, board secretary for the American Cider Association and co-owner of Corvallis, Ore.-based 2 Towns Ciderhouse. “There’s not any more land being created, and a lot of farmland is getting eaten up by urban expansion.”

Takush also noted that climate change is a concern as heat, lack of rain and changing weather patterns can affect and even destroy fruit crops. 

“We’re making a fermented beverage. All the flavor profile and aromas are driven by the fruit we use. We need the best,” Takush said.

Eric Fouch, co-owner and brewer at Thornapple Brewing in Cascade Township and a GLINTCAP regular, echoed those concerns, noting that acute pressure on land use. Fouch sources all of his cider apples locally. 

“The Fruit Ridge is a beautiful area, and developers would love nothing better than to wipe out all the apple trees,” Fouch said. “The biggest concern for me (is) if the local apples run out. If it’s a really bad apple year and the crop is down, sometimes by September or October I have a hard time finding apples. So supply is a big issue, and weather plays a lot into what we have.”

Looking forward 

Despite concerns about the stability of the fruit industry, cider makers are creating fresh styles and flavors to keep the beverage relevant in a changing craft industry.  

“I think we are at an interesting crossroads for all alcohol beverage categories, particularly with cider because we are maybe a little bit misunderstood at times,” Englin said. “There is a need to provide a spectrum of offerings for people. There are more and more hard ciders that are going to be a lower ABV option. … We’ve seen across all the categories, ciders included, that other end of spectrum: robust higher ABV ciders and apple-based liquors and spirits. It’s really fun to see how those things are developing.”

Englin also noted a rising prevalence in complex flavors in the cider category as cideries add fruit and botanical notes of herbs and spices to bring depth to their ciders. 

Dan Young, co-owner of Suttons Bay-based Tandem Ciders, has also been exploring new fruit flavors, including a strawberry jam and peach jam option using local fruit from Northern Michigan orchards. 

“People love that,” he said.

At Thornapple Brewing, Fouch said he’s noticed an increased interest in layered flavors among cider drinkers, noting that his most popular cider on tap is a ginger peach option. 

While cideries continue to innovate to stay ahead of consumer interests, events like GLINTCAP serve to facilitate growth and conversation as makers share ideas and inspiration. 

“(GLINTCAP) brings together these big, well-respected producers and then we have a category for home cider makers. They all get in the room together, they all celebrate and learn from each other, and it’s really beautiful and encouraging,” Englin said. “People leave feeling very tired, but really inspired and excited to get home and try out some new things.” 

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