Test Driving Baudry Greene – a hit of Euro style and substance on a Covent Garden corner


baudry greene covent garden restaurant reviewLooking into Baudry Greene from the entrance

So what’s the story with Baudry Greene?

The opening of this new all-day bar and cafe means that Will and Ian, (The 10 Cases, The 10 Cases Bistrot a Vin and Parsons) pretty much run the whole block (with the exception of Earl’s Cafe on the corner). When American Classics declared they were moving elsewhere in Covent Garden, buying up their site seemed too good an opportunity for the duo to miss out on. To that end, they’ve opened what is an all-day affair with what they describe as “a European accent”.

Where is it exactly?

You’ll find it on the corner of Endell Street and Betterton Street in WC2 with Covent Garden being the closest tube station. There are lots of theatres within a few minutes walk making this a particularly handy pre or post-show pitstop.

baudry greene covent garden restaurant reviewThis is what you’re looking for, just to the left of the original 10 Cases. 

So what does a European accent mean, food-wise?

The answer to that depends on what time of day you come.

First thing in the morning, Head Chef Kate O’Sullivan (ex-head pastry chef at Noble Rot) is serving up French patisserie, a Bavarian breakfast plate (think speck with pretzels) and there’s a very enticing grab-and-go option from the cafe’s hatch of a bacon roll and filter coffee for a fiver.

baudry greene covent garden restaurant reviewA genuinely good deal for a central London breakfast. 

Later in the day, things switch up a notch for lunch where you might find a coronation chicken sandwich or Jambon Beurre jostling for attention with one of these.

baudry greene covent garden restaurant review‘Nduja sausage roll with Epping Forest honey dressing (it’s served with a salad for lunch, but we had this as an evening bar snack for £8.50).

As for our own visit, we popped in to try the evening offering when the menu is evenly split between savoury snacks, small plates, and desserts. Here’s what we tried to give you a flavour of what to expect.

baudry greene covent garden restaurant reviewWarm pretzel and taramasalata (£9) – with a notably generous pile of taramasalata

baudry greene covent garden restaurant reviewTrout roe with blinis and creme fraiche £15) – obviously homemade blinis and lovely pickled onions to go with it.

baudry greene covent garden restaurant reviewGravadlax served with a rye bread cris, sweet mustard and creme fraiche (£9)

baudry greene covent garden restaurant reviewBaron Bigod toasted sandwich with rhubarb chutney (£11) – A pretty perfect cheese toastie

Room for dessert?

Given chef Kate’s background we were warned to make sure we left room. Sadly the honey cake we’d seen so much of on Instagram was finished by the time we got around to ordering. We can’t be too sad though as we did end up with these delights:

baudry greene covent garden restaurant reviewRhubarb and sherry triffle with stem ginger, custard and cream (£8)

baudry greene covent garden restaurant reviewBlood orange and pistachio pavlova (£7.50) – made with brown sugar meringue and served with blood orange Chantilly

And the drinks list?

Obviously, during the day the list is more focused on caffeine-based drinks with the odd Euro addition like Citron Pressé. But towards the evening their cocktails come to the fore and they are very well made. None of this performative nonsense – they’re mostly pre-batched, ice-cold and ready to pour. And they’re very, very good indeed. 

baudry greene covent garden restaurant reviewLeft to right – an exemplary Sidecar (£14) and pitch perfect Vodka Martini (£13) made with Konik’s Tail and Noilly Prat.

There’s also a short range of Euro beers and ciders and an edited European-focused wine list kicking off at £39 for a bottle of Sicilian Grillo and topping out at £110 for a 1999 bottle of Coudoulet de Beaucastel.

Overall thoughts:

Baudry Greene is giving very strong ‘if I was going to open my own bar this is what it would look like’ vibes. On a wintry January evening the place was packed with groups of friends, couples on dates, folks dropping in pre-theatre and there was a distinct air of this is just what the area needed.

It’s a winning addition to Ian and Will’s Covent Garden mini-empire.

More about Baudry Greene

Where is it? 20 Endell St, London WC2H 9BD

Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @baudrygreene

Hot Dinners dined as guests of Baudry Greene. Prices correct at time of publication. 

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