Soft curves, streamlined silhouettes and sleek fabrics: the A/W 2024 menswear collections were imbued with a new flamboyance, seeing classic ensembles reimagined with a sense of panache and performance.
There was Loewe, where creative director Jonathan Anderson looked towards the ‘iconography’ of Hollywood and the ‘collaged realness’ of social media with a collection adorned with theatrical flourishes. This included bows and beads alongside the delirious illustrations of Los Angeles-based artist Richard Hawkins (‘it’s all about different types of validation… how we perceive ourselves to the outside world,’ said Anderson at the time).
Jacket, price on request; shoes, £665, both by Loewe (enquire at loewe.com)
(Image credit: Photography by Matthieu Delbreuve, fashion by David St John James)
At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello proposed louche, oversized tailoring and outerwear which recalled the 1980s silhouettes of American Gigolo. ‘Fluid, with an intentional slouch, an illusion of fabric turning liquid,’ said the designer. Meanwhile, Dolce & Gabbana’s latest menswear offering was titled ‘Sleek’: a ‘story of elegance and handmade… a sartorial essay,’ described Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana of the largely black collection, which demonstrated their tailoring prowess.
Here, taken from the September 2024 Style Issue of Wallpaper*, photographer Matthieu Delbreuve and fashion editor David St John James put a series of these menswear looks centre stage in a series titled ‘Quiet on Set’.
Jacket, £3,550, by Burberry (enquire at burberry.com)
(Image credit: Photography by Matthieu Delbreuve, fashion by David St John James)
Coat, £13,200; shirt, £780; trousers, £1,275; tie, price on request, all by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello (enquire at ysl.com)
(Image credit: Photography by Matthieu Delbreuve, fashion by David St John James)
Opposite, top, £490; trousers, £390, both by Homme Plissé Issey Miyake (enquire at isseymiyake.com). Hat, £820, by Roger Vivier (enquire at rogervivier.com). Shoes, £740, by Church’s (available at church-footwear.com)
(Image credit: Photography by Matthieu Delbreuve, fashion by David St John James)
Jacket, £3,260; trousers, £1,150 (enquire at gucci.com); shoes, £925 (available at mytheresa.com), all by Gucci. ‘Dr Sonderbar’ chair, £2,100, by Philippe Starck, for Disform, from Monument (enquire at monumentstore.co.uk)
(Image credit: Photography by Matthieu Delbreuve, fashion by David St John James)
Top, €1,200; trousers, €900; socks, €260, all by Duran Lantink (enquire at instagram.com/duranlantinkyo). Shoes, £740, by Church’s (available at church-footwear.com)
(Image credit: Photography by Matthieu Delbreuve, fashion by David St John James)
Shirt, £1,400; vest, price on request; trousers, £950, all by Dolce & Gabbana (enquire at dolcegabbana.com)
(Image credit: Photography by Matthieu Delbreuve, fashion by David St John James)
Jacket; trousers; shoes, all price on request, by Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier (enquire at jilsander.com)
(Image credit: Photography by Matthieu Delbreuve, fashion by David St John James)
Shirt, £870; shorts, £890; belt, £410; bag, £2,650, all by Fendi (enquire at fendi.com). Shoes £655, by Santoni (available at santonishoes.com)
(Image credit: Photography by Matthieu Delbreuve, fashion by David St John James)
Jacket; hoodie; hat, all price on request, by Wooyoungmi (enquire at wooyoungmi.com)
(Image credit: Photography by Matthieu Delbreuve, fashion by David St John James)
Model: Indy van Opstal at Ford Models Paris. Casting: Svea Casting. Grooming: Chris Sweeney at One Represents using Sunday Riley and Sisley. Interiors: Olly Mason. Photography assistant: Kevin Ramos. Fashion assistant: Olivia Meghan. Interiors assistant: Archie Thomson. Production assistant: Minna Vauhkonen.
This article appears in the September 2024 issue of Wallpaper*, available in print on international newsstands, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today.