It may be meteorological spring but the wind chill would have you thinking that it’s still January. The daffodils and crocus may be bobbing in the wind but the steely grey skies and freezing temperatures mean an afternoon spent in a cosy pub is a welcome way to toast the new season.
It’s with this in mind when we book into the Boar’s Head in Auchtermuchty in Fife. A Scran Awards finalist last year, this Fife pub has an AA Rosette (which was achieved last year) as well a host of other accolades under its belt.
Inside the pub restaurant there’s green half panelled walls, chunky tartan chairs, repurposed furniture and a feature wall with duck wallpaper and a roaring log burning stove. If it sounds eclectic, it is, but in the best, most welcoming and warming way.
It has the feel of walking into a comfortable home that has some flair, and the menu matches. We booked in for a Friday lunch, which there’s a set menu – two courses for £25 and three courses for £30 which included a glass of wine, half pint or draft or soft drink. If you’d like a more extensive menu, the a la carte is also available.
Local producers are evident in both menus – and include East Neuk Kilnhouse, Luvians ice cream and Clootie McToot. The bar too is stuffed full of Scottish gins, whiskies and beers and the non alcoholic options are plenty – ideal for the designated driver.
We decided to go for the set lunch menu and start with soup of the day, which was root vegetable and East Neuk Kilnhouse smoked salmon, lilliput capers, sherry pickled shallots, lemon and parsley.
Before we got stuck into that, we ordered snacks of smoked almonds – salty and smoky, delicious and gordal olives, which were served in a small kilner jar to enjoy while we sipped a non alcoholic beer and an elderflower fizz.
The soup, whose name doesn’t do it justice, was a vibrant, deep turmeric colour, topped with parsnips crisps and micro herbs. It had a thick and velvety texture (one I can only dream of achieving at home) and a deep flavour punctuated with sweetness.
The salmon was served as two firm slices and a curled thin slice along with a slice of homemade brown bread, and a pile of capers, the pickled shallots and chopped parsley, and a slice of lemon. The salmon tasted fresh and sweet, with a delicate smokiness.
The piquant capers and shallots – a stand out addition – added a punch of flavour while the bread gave some body and texture. A classic dish but with little additions, makes it moreish.
Mains were chicken supreme with chicken leg ravioli, leeks and oyster mushroom and a truffle and vegetarian parmesan risotto.
The chicken – and baby leek and leg ravioli – was succulent and was covered with a well seasoned unctuous gravy.
The risotto – a large portion – was served with a flurry of parmesan cheese and truffle on top and with three parmesan crisps – like sails on a boat – sticking out of the oozing risotto. The texture was akin to rice pudding but this was a flavoursome, comforting dish, with good seasoning and herbs cutting through the richness of the truffle and cheese.
For dessert, I chose the Clootie Mctoot dumpling served with Luvians vanilla ice cream while across the table it was the Affogato with Luvians vanilla ice cream and a shot of espresso.
I’ve written in the past about how no clootie dumpling can live up to my great gran and nanny’s recipes (which are sadly long gone) but this comes very, very close – and a good example of using a local supplier who’s top of their game.
The thick slice of dumpling – complete with firm skin – was topped with white ice cream and a fine biscuit leaf. Sweet and spiced with Christmas spices, this was like going back in time. The sweet ice cream in the affogato was balanced with a good shot of espresso and topped off with a small slice of homemade bounty.
We took longer than we thought we might over this lunch, as it was so enjoyable and the setting so warm and cosy. It was busy for the end of the week, and with such friendly staff, affordable, delicious menu, and good drinks selection, it’s not hard to see why.
The Boar’s Head well deserves the awards it has been given so far, and is a great example of how a local pub can be so much more, with good cooking and utilising local suppliers.