Seated away from the buzz, our critic tries the fine but unexceptional menu at a much-hyped new London restaurant
The Devonshire in London. Photo: Claire Menary Photography
Today at 03:30
The Devonshire opened towards the end of last year to ecstatic reviews from the UK’s foremost restaurant critics. The rapturous column inches had me salivating and determined to book in on my next visit to London. This turns out to be easier said than done, as reservations are hard to come by, but in the end, a table is secured thanks to some nifty keyboard action on the part of my nearest and dearest on the day bookings open for our chosen date. A few days before we are due to visit, Nigella puts up a swooning post extolling the delights of her recent dining experience. To say that we are looking forward to ours would be an understatement.
We meet up with our dining companions in the pub, which has already established a reputation for serving the best pint of Guinness in London. Even though the place is heaving on a wet Tuesday evening, the bar staff are so on top of their game that we wait only a minute before being served. And the Guinness (82/18pc nitrogen/carbon dioxide ratio in the cylinder, apparently, for any stout nerds out there) is properly delicious.