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The return of the smokey eye was not something we’d anticipated, especially not as a trend forcast for spring-summer 2025. Alas, the beauty gods have spoken, and make-up artists backstage at the most recent fashion weeks have been snapped applying the moody-glam look to their models. Folks, the time has come to dig out those Bobbi brown shadow sticks (£23.60, Lookfantastic.com) and MAC paint pots (£22, Lookfantastic.com) of lore.
With almost 10 years between us and the last smokey eye hubbub – which landed circa. 2015, during an era of Kardashian-fueled fake tan and full face make-up looks – we’re not even sure we’ve got the knack of diffusing dark to light eyeshadows anymore.
To help us master the perfect finish, we reached out to Hollie Ellis, make-up artist at Bobbi Brown, a.k.a. the brand synonymous with the OG smokey eye. Ellis – who works on runway shows (including Erdem) as well as celebrities like Emma Louise Connelly and AJ Odudu – discloses that smokey eyes are indeed “making a comeback now we are coming into the colder months.” “From doing the make-up at New York and London fashion weeks, soft grunge smokey eyes have been the key focus this season,” she added.
Keep reading for all the tips and kernals of wisdom we managed to glean from the make-up artist on how to achieve the ultimate smokey eye.
How to create a smokey eye
According to Ellis, the signature smokey eye needn’t be overcomplicated and requires just a few key products to execute. One of her top picks is Bobbi Brown’s long-wear shadow stick, which has a creamy formula with travel-friendly, twist-up packaging and a myriad of shades to choose from (£23.60, Lookfantastic.com). Describing the formula, Ellis says: “They’re not only easier to blend and create endless eye makeup looks [with] but also help the make-up to last up to 24 hours.”
Similarly, Ellis extols the virtues of mascara when it comes to creating a sultry-look, adding that Bobbi Brown’s aptly named smokey eye mascara (£31, Lookfantastic.com) would be her top choice. As for the step-by-step instructions to follow, Ellis shared her five top tips to follow for seamless results.
- “Begin with a neutral shade and apply all over the eyelid and up to the brow bone,” Ellis states, clarifying that this starting point will eliminate redness and serve as a clean slate.
- “Sweep and press a medium shade onto the eyelid and diffuse the edges just above the crease,” she adds, explaining that this step “helps give warmth and structure to the eyes”.
- Next, you should “apply a deeper shade along the lash line in pressing and stippling motions,” to give definition, she reveals.
- Then, “for extra smokiness, apply a darker eyeliner shade into the upper and lower waterline,” which enhances the appearance of the whites of the eyes, according to Ellis.
- The final step is to “add lots of coats of mascara to give length and volume,” she concludes.
What are the best products for a smokey eye?
There are many ways you can create a smokey eye but Ellis favours a creamy formula as her go-to as you don’t need to use brushes, meaning “it keeps everything quick and easy to achieve”. Other products that are key include mascara and kohl eyeliner (more on that later).
How to do a basic smokey eye
While the five-step process is easy to follow, it is possible to create a smokey eye in even less stages. Ellis says she loves a “one-product swipe and go smokey eye”. How to acheive it? She explains it’s all about applying your cream shadow along the lash line quite thickly.
“It’s completely up to you how dark you want to go, but with cream formulas you can always apply softly at first and add more depth if needed,” she explains. The best part is that you don’t even need a make-up brush. Simply, “use your fingertips to blend and buff the product upwards towards the eyelid space,” she says. “Apply lashings of mascara and you’re good to go.”
Read more: I’ve just found the perfect foundation for oily skin
How to do a smokey eye for different eye colours
Adapting a smokey eye to different eye colours is all about opting for opposites with your make-up colours. For example, Ellis says that if you have blue eyes, it’s important to “opt for tones that will make them pop even more – warm brown tones are amazing.” Our pick? Bobbi Brown’s golden amber long-wear cream shadow.
With that same opposites mindset, Ellis suggests that “blue tones are gorgeous for making brown eyes stand out.” And, surprisingly, plum.
While Ellis recommends Bobbi Brown’s two-in-one kohl cream liner for this, we had a lightbulb moment and remembered Kiko Milano’s (more affordable) eyeliner and khôl duo. Naturally, Ellis’ premium pick is sure to impress, but if you’re on a budget there’s £19 in savings to be had. Plus, a brown eye-friendly aquamarine shade is in stock – to say we were excited would be an understatement.
KIKO Milano lasting precision automatic eyeliner and khôl in dark ultramarine: £10.49, Lookfantastic.com
After more beauty tips? Why not browse everything you need to know about salicylic acid, according to the experts