New York-based designer Vivienne Tam sought to bring “a vision of neo-modern Chinese beauty and craftsmanship” to Paris for the fall show celebrating her 30th anniversary.

Basing her work largely on the side closure, wide sleeves and standing collar of the qipao, the designer distilled its proportions and features throughout a lineup that ranged from traditional-looking versions and flirty minidresses to minimalist chic tunics and tailored suits.

It was the latter direction that yielded the freshest results. Motifs taken from classic Chinese iconography, such as dragons and the symbols for the five elements, were spread across silhouettes as prints and embroideries.

Standouts included denim jacquard jackets and dresses that had a retro-cool flair; a suit that hit the East-meets-West balance on the nose thanks to graphic fabric closures creating an eye-catching asymmetry, and her lightweight netting dresses, a long-standing brand signature.

A final section focused on bridal, from red and gold options nodding to Chinese traditions to a gown made from lace interweaving the Chinese character for love and the French “amour” in curling letters, in keeping with Tam’s metaphoric marriage of East and West.